10
Sep 13

Lisbon

Tuesday
Lisbon time! A bit scared of the driving and parking in Lisbon’s tiny, narrow, one-way, crowded streets, we did not let the fear get the best of us and bravely headed in for the morning. Iestyn and Nexy did super well and we arrived at our chosen hyper-modern underground parking lot in the middle of all that mattered in Lisbon.

Gina with the Golden Gate Bridge in the background

Gina with the Golden Gate Bridge in the background

Minature Lisbon from Miraduro da Graça

Minature Lisbon from Miraduro da Graça

We started off at the Miraduro da Graça, a nice viewpoint over the town with a cherry of a church on top. From there we walked over to the gorgeous Igreja São Vincente de Fora, with beautiful azulejo-filled cloister and epic exhibition of 18th-century azulejo illustration of La Fontaine’s Fables. Also, the biggest collection of seashells.

Igreja São Vincente de Fora, Cloister

Igreja São Vincente de Fora, Cloister

Igreja São Vincente de Fora

Igreja São Vincente de Fora

Sea shell collection

Sea shell collection

Quick trip to the flea market behind the church, and outside view of the national pantheon. We were not too keen on the insides of the castle, which was also insanely touristy, so we just made a nice walk around on the top of the hill for views.

Patriarchal Cathedral of St. Mary Major

Patriarchal Cathedral of St. Mary Major

A visit to the cathedral and a couple more churches, and we were ready for a rest in a nice Austrian café with toasted sandwiches, strudel and beer/coffee. This gave us energy for more sightseeing, and we headed to the spectacular Praça do Commercio, where we were approached by drug dealers every time we passed by the central statue of Dom Jose I (no less than five times).

Nice Austrian café

Nice Austrian café

Praça do Commercio

Praça do Commercio

Dom Jose I statue

Dom Jose I statue

We then tried to figure out how to get to Belem by public transport when Iestyn had a genius idea of just driving there, which proved super useful not only because it was only some 7 km from where we were, but also because we later found out that our campsite was very close to Belem as well.

Chillin'

Chillin’

Lisbon Tram and street

Lisbon Tram and street

In Belem, we visited the most beautiful place of them all, the ultimate Manueline beauty to rule them, the Mosteiro dos Jeronimos. Do I even need to mention it’s on the list?

Standing at the entrance to Lisbon harbour, the Monastery of the Hieronymites – construction of which began in 1502 – exemplifies Portuguese art at its best. The nearby Tower of Belém, built to commemorate Vasco da Gama’s expedition, is a reminder of the great maritime discoveries that laid the foundations of the modern world.

Monastery of the Hieronymites entrance

Monastery of the Hieronymites entrance

Pillar Detail

Pillar Detail

A very relaxed Gina

A very relaxed Gina

Cloisters of Jerónimos Monastery

Cloisters of Jerónimos Monastery

As our book says:

The mosteiro is the stuff of pure fantasy – a fusion of Diogo de Boitaca’s creative vision and the spice and pepper dosh of Manuel I, who commissioned it to trumpet Vasco da Gama’s discovery of a sea route to India in 1498. There is nothing like the moment you walk into the honey-stoned Manueline cloisters, dripping with organic detail in their delicately scalloped arches, twisting auger-shell turrets and columns intertwined with leaves, vines and knots.

Indeed, nothing like it. Vasco da Gama’s tomb is in the church as well.

"..honey-stoned Manueline cloisters"

“..honey-stoned Manueline cloisters”

Gina midd dance

Gina midd dance

From the monastery we walked over to the Tower of Belem, already mighty tired for the day.

Tower of Belem

Tower of Belem


09
Sep 13

Sintra

Monday
Getting closer to Lisbon already, we crossed the famous faux-Golden Gate bridge and got a glimpse of the big city on our way to Sintra, whose “cultural landscape” is on the UNESCO list, oh god, how many more still to come?

In the 19th century Sintra became the first centre of European Romantic architecture. Ferdinand II turned a ruined monastery into a castle where this new sensitivity was displayed in the use of Gothic, Egyptian, Moorish and Renaissance elements and in the creation of a park blending local and exotic species of trees. Other fine dwellings, built along the same lines in the surrounding serra , created a unique combination of parks and gardens which influenced the development of landscape architecture throughout Europe.

There are many sights to see in Sintra and surroundings, so we had to make a careful selection. After some navig kerfuffle around town, we oriented ourselves and went first to see the famous Palacio Nacional de Sintra with two iconic cone chimneys on top.

Palacio Nacional de Sintra

Palacio Nacional de Sintra

Swan Hall - Sala Grande

Swan Hall – Sala Grande

Gold Room

Gold Chamber

The building itself was beautiful with exquisite interiors and tiling, but it could not be more touristy, so the crowds spoilt it for us a bit.
Our fav piece of art was the painting of Jesus in naughty nightie, but we later learned that it was actually John Baptist donning that sexy little piece.

John Baptist donning a sexy piece

John Baptist donning a sexy piece

Afterwards we decided to visit the Quinta da Regaleira, a neo-Manueline extravaganza complete with huge gardens with tunnels, caves, secret doors, waterfalls, famous inverted tower, gods, goddesses, gargoyles and beasts… so much beauty! Nearly not as many people either, it made the highlight of the day.

Quinta da Regaleira

Quinta da Regaleira

Gina relaxing on her throne

Gina relaxing on her throne

The Regaleira Chapel

The Regaleira Chapel

Gina navigating a cave

Gina navigating a cave

Initiation Well

Initiation Well

Initiation Well

Initiation Well

Gina and Castle of the Moors on the hilltop

Gina and Castle of the Moors on the hilltop

Late lunch of pizza in a nearby outdoor snack bar, we had enough for the day, and decided to give a miss to the other places around Sintra and just head for the coast.

Pizza time!

Pizza time!

Iestyn selected Praia Grande due to some more dino fossils nearby, but there was not camping around, so we drove down to Guincho instead, the famous windy beach, mecca of kitesurfers and windsurfers. We found a tiny wind-shielded cove in the rocks and watched the surfers fight those mighty waves.

 


05
Sep 13

Évora

Thursday
The big “drive to the south” day, broken only by a visit to the medieval gem of Évora town. Do I need to say it’s another UNESCO site?

This museum-city, whose roots go back to Roman times, reached its golden age in the 15th century, when it became the residence of the Portuguese kings. Its unique quality stems from the whitewashed houses decorated with azulejos and wrought-iron balconies dating from the 16th to the 18th century. Its monuments had a profound influence on Portuguese architecture in Brazil.

Cathedral of Évora

Cathedral of Évora

Central nave of Évora Cathedral

Central nave of Évora Cathedral

Yellow Evora Streets

Yellow Evora Streets

We saw most of the sites in Évora, except for the ossuary, which neither of us had any interest in seeing, because ewww.

Rooftop panorama

Rooftop panorama

Evora Cathedral Cloisters

Evora Cathedral Cloisters

Gina and the Cathedral towers

Gina and the Cathedral towers

Cathedral Rooftop

Cathedral Rooftop

Roman Temple of Évora

Roman Temple of Évora

In the afternoon we made it all the way to Vila Nova de Milfontes, a chilled out beach town, where we intend to spend a day of beach relax tomorrow. In the evening we went to a grilled fish restaurant beautifully located on the beach, and had some huge grilled sea breams, which were delicious.

Grilled sea breams at Vila Nova de Milfontes

Grilled sea breams at Vila Nova de Milfontes


03
Sep 13

Serra da Estrela – Coimbra

Tuesday
We left the camp and headed south-west to Coimbra with the help of Nexy’s GPS. After finding a parking surprisingly near the centre of Coimbra without knowing where we are, we were ready for the sights in the heat.

Gina overlooking Serra da Estrela

Gina overlooking Serra da Estrela

Starting at the Praça 8 de Mayo, the beautiful Igreja de Santa Cruz gave us a taste of what’s ahead in the town. After climbing some back-breaking stairs we found the super-stunning old cathedral.

Gina & Igreja de Santa Cruz

Gina & Igreja de Santa Cruz

Street art in Coimbra

The real gem of Ciombra however lies in its old university, and we spared no expense in getting around the place, including the exquisite library and even academic prison (which is exactly what it sounds like). Our guidebook says:

The Old University consists of a series of remarkable 16th- to 18th-century buildings all set around the vast Patio das Escolas. In the square is a statue of João III – it was he who re-established the university in Coimbra in 1537. The square’s most prominent feature is the18th-cenury clock tower. From the courtyard gate there is a staircase to the rather grand Sala dos Capelos (Graduates’ Hall), a former examination room hung with dark portraits of Portugal’s kings, and heavy quilt-like decoration. However, all else pales before the Biblioteca Joanina (João V library) from early 18thcentury. It seems too extravagant and distracting for study with its rosewood, ebony and jacaranda tables, elaborately frescoed ceilings and gilt chinoiserie bookshelves.

Coimbra university is another UNESCO World Heritage site, read about it here.

Old University Square

Old University Square

Gina on the balcony

Gina on the balcony

Statue of King João III

Statue of King João III

Afterwards, almost dropping dead from the heat, we had a great lunch downtown, including a mango mousse for Gina. We’ve been eating magnificently on this trip so far.

10

Eating well!

We decided not to linger around Coimbra but push for the coast for the night. Nearest place we found was Figuera da Foz with a campsite right on a vast and awesome beach where we saw the sunset, then had a couple of drinks in the camp bar while charging Nexy, and wearily dropped down in our great tent (Stinky II).

Sun setting at Figuera da Foz

Sun setting at Figuera da Foz