09
Jul 15

Mývatn – Höfn

Our alarm went off at 7am, we’re getting up way too early on this trip. Also, Iest woke up with dried boogers all over his face, owing to some kind of explosion at night. We had a hearty breakfast and headed to ‘town’ to wait for our bus. We had plenty of time so got us a few things for the trip in the small supermarket and went to the visitor centre to find our what the bird was we saw the day before. Turns out it was a Whimbrel.

Our bus came on time, was almost empty, and we cosied up by the window for our long trip for the day. It took us through Egilsstaðir down to the Icelandic eastern coast and then through various small villages and deep fjords along the coast. The weather was nice, and so we had some amazing views on the way.

Campsite at Höfn

Campsite at Höfn

We arrived in Höfn for about half five, pitched a tent under a rainbow, and went to the local visitor centre to get some travel info – we still don’t know whether our planned hike trail in a couple days time is already open and passable. This was the nicest visitor centre we’d seen so far, made up inside like an old Icelandic cottage.

We took a short stroll along the harbour and dropped in the local greasy eatery – for me to get the local speciality (langoustine baguette), while Iest got a plain old junk burger and fries. We bought more fuel on the way back and took a very unsatisfying shower before diving into our sleeping bags. It was the warmest night in a long time, it’s clear we’re back down from the north!


08
Jul 15

Mývatn

This day we wanted to explore the Mývatn area and its main sights. Unfortunately, while not far away, they are still a little bit too much spread out to walk around all of them in a day. There’s a bus making the round trip between 12 and 16:30 or so, but we thought it was quite expensive for what it was, and even more importantly, it would not give us the opportunity to walk around the short trails at the places we wanted to see.

Morning view from camp!

Morning view from camp!

So we decided to try our luck hitching rides for the day, especially since without our big packs we thought we should be ok. We waited on the road out of town to the direction of Hverir where we wanted to go first, and initially didn’t have much luck, because we were only second in line after a couple of hippies with big bags nobody wanted to take. Nevertheless, after about half hour (and increasing our distance from the hobos) we were picked up by a very nice French guy and his mum, who were touring Iceland together – they took us all the way to Hverir parking lot, bingo!

Hverir

Hverir

Mud cauldron at Hverir

Mud cauldron at Hverir

At Hverir, we marvelled at the beauty of yet another sulphur-stinking geothermal areas, as our guide puts it “magical, ochre-toned world of Hverir is a lunar-like landscape of mud cauldrons, steaming vents, radiant mineral deposits and piping fumaroles.” Quite so.

Hverir

A piping fumaroles, Hverir

Gina and the mud cauldron

Gina and the mud cauldron

Radiant mineral deposits

Radiant mineral deposits

We walked a short circular trail over the nearest ridge, which was a great choice because not only did we discover more steaming fields bur also we got to see the whole area from up top, with amazing views all the way back to lake Mývatn on the other side.

Looking down on Hverir

Looking down on Hverir

Gina and the lunar landscape

Gina and the lunar landscape

Us at Hverir

Us at Hverir

Gina 50mm'd

Gina 50mm’d

Iest 50mm'd

Iest 50mm’d

After getting down, we went back on the road and walked over to the turnoff to Krafla, where we got lucky already with the second car going up – a young US couple.

Krafla

Krafla

Gina 'thumbing' like a pro

Gina ‘thumbing’ like a pro

At Krafla, we went first to the Víti explosion crater, which is now filled with turquoise water. From there, we walked over to the Leirhnjúkur lava field, which was created through a series of nine eruptions as recent as the 1970s and 80s – a very impressive trail of blackness and fumes again!

Víti explosion crater

Víti explosion crater

Gina at the Víti explosion crater

Gina at the Víti explosion crater

Leirhnjúkur lava field

Leirhnjúkur lava field

Gina at the Leirhnjúkur lava fields

Gina at the Leirhnjúkur lava fields

Mighty awesome atmosphere

Mighty awesome atmosphere

Leirhnjúkur lava field

Leirhnjúkur lava field

It was beginning to be a bit chilly and we also hadn’t eaten the whole day, so we were ready to have a late lunch and warm ourselves up in the local nature baths – just to get there. But we were lucky again, taken down to the main road by an English guy, and from there in a bit by a nice French family all the way to the baths. We had a light lunch in the café, and then we were ready to jump in. The baths are not huge but two good sized connected pools, the cooler of which with amazing views over the lava fields all the way to Mývatn in the distance.

Mývatn Nature Baths

Mývatn Nature Baths

Needless to say, we stayed mostly in the hotter one, and enjoyed it immensely. The milky steaming waters were supremely relaxing, and the floating heads of other people had an otherworldly beauty to them – the steam worked like a soft focus lens. We stayed soaking for about an hour until we were all wrinkly and then reluctantly left. Despite being all relaxed and soft, we decided to walk back to the lake on a trail, which was nice, and we saw some new lava formations too. Once we hit the main road by the lake we found Daddi’s pizza and treated ourselves in this small but popular spot to a couple of pizzas, which were surely too big but delicious. I went for the house special – with smoked trout and pine nuts – delish! Iest had his fave Icelandic beer too.


07
Jul 15

Vesturdalur – Mývatn

We woke up to a light drizzle but by the time we got up it was over. We made a nice breakfast and packed up and were ready to go, when Iest noticed that the clip from his chest strap is missing. (For the record, Osprey backpacks are the worst designed backpacks I have ever seen in every possible aspect. Iest was struggling with the piece of sh*t for the whole trip.) Fortunately we managed to find the clip in the grass, which was just pure luck, really, and were ready to go.

Jökulsárgljúfur canyon

Jökulsárgljúfur canyon

Gina & Jökulsárgljúfur canyon

Gina & Jökulsárgljúfur canyon

Iest & Jökulsárgljúfur canyon

Iest & Jökulsárgljúfur canyon

The way along the canyon was maybe even more spectacular than the day before, because we had plenty of side waterfalls to enjoy, and and also one river crossing – icy cold, straight from the glacier no less. We fancied that.

River Crossing

River Crossing

River Crossing

River Crossing

Waterfall

Waterfall

Jökulsárgljúfur canyon

Jökulsárgljúfur canyon

We arrived at the Dettifoss waterfall after 4pm, via the campsite which unlike what we thought was not actually by the waterfall but a nice grassy spot within a lava field a little way off. There were no facilities save for a wooden table and a tank of water in the campsite.

Detifoss

Dettifoss

Dettifoss itself was quite impressive indeed, with apparently the largest volume of water roaring through of any European waterfall. After we had enough of looking at it, and were also quite wet from its mighty spray, we headed back to the campsite to pitch our home for the night. Our bus was supposed to go at 1pm the next day. There were a lot of cars in the parking lot, and also a tour bus – that’s where I thought may be it would be going to Mývatn as well, and could give us a lift to save us half a day, and may be we could even have a shower already today.

Gina and Dettifoss

Gina and Detifoss

Gina and Dettifoss

Gina and Dettifoss

The bus driver indeed confirmed that he was going to Mývatn afterwards but we had to wait for the tour guide to decide whether we could take a ride with them. Fortunately she was kind, and there were two spots left on the bus, so soon enough we found ourselves in the nice company of a Spanish group on our way to Mývatn – we were quite happy!

In Reykjahlíð we saw a nice camp right on the shores of the lake, so we went in to check-in; but alas, the woman said their card machine was not working. It would not be such a big problem, we could pitch a tent, and go to the ATM nearby – but we were quite unhappy with how unpleasant and sour-faced the woman was altogether; that’s no way to treat customers, and we are not used to that here in Iceland – everyone so far has been extremely nice. She was not Icelandic either, and I would be willing to bet she was Czech. Anyway, thinking we had no other option we went to ‘town’ to get the money. While there, we met our German friends we saw at a couple of places before, and they told us there was another campsite further down the road – so we decided to make the move. This meant we had to pack our tent and bags again, then we told the sour-faced b*tch where to stick it, and walked over to the other place. The young woman in the reception was over-the-top nice as if wanting to compensate, and we had our mojo back.

We pitched the tent with a beautiful view of the lake and mountains on the horizon, and we were super happy with our long hot shower. Made a delish dinner of pasta and sauce, and were mighty tired already.

Campsite at Reykjahlíð

Campsite at