14
Jul 15

Landmannalaugar – Álftavatn

The weather wasn’t much to write home about in the morning but at least it was not raining as it rained throughout the night. We packed our wet stuff and set out on the first day of the Laugavegur.

Iest starting off

Iest starting off

Looking back towards Landmannalaugar

Looking back towards Landmannalaugar

Colourful hills of Landmannalaugar

Colourful hills of Landmannalaugar

Ranger Ladies

Ranger Ladies

It started nicely up the mountains, with a lot of steaming geothermal fields along the way. As we picked up altitude the snowfields were becoming larger and visibility lower. After ascending some 500 meters in altitude and crossing the pass between Söðull and Hrafntinnusker mountains in dense fog, we finally reached the Hrafntinnusker hut, where we planned to camp for the night. But it was still quite early in the day (about 2pm), and the conditions were not great – fully under snow and very little visibility – so we decided to push through and do the hike planned for tomorrow already today, to get to more hospitable places.

Dense Fog

Dense Fog

Iest coming down from the fog

Iest coming down from the fog

From the hut we still had to cross a large plateau covered in snow before we started to descend and lose altitude quite quickly. Soon we got under the clouds again, and things started looking up, although it was still a fairly long way to the next hut. The next hut/camp at Álftavatn had a great location by the lake, and by the time we got there we even got to see some sun in the cracks between the clouds. We were quite knackered after a long double day, so we dined quickly and went straight to bed.

Descending towards the lake at Álftavatn

Descending towards the lake at Álftavatn

Road to Álftavatn

Road to Álftavatn

Looking back up towards the Hrafntinnusker mountains

Looking back up towards the Hrafntinnusker mountains


13
Jul 15

Landmannalaugar

Landmannalaugar Campsite

Landmannalaugar Campsite

Trailhead

Trailhead

There was a lot of rain at night, so far our tent is holding up nicely, so we slept until after nine. Got us a map of local hikes (shittiest map ever btw, looks like it was hand-painted by a local schoolchild, with no regard for topography or scale), and decided to walk up to Ljótipollur – a small lake in a red volcanic crater. The walk was really nice, we spiced it up by walking over a couple of ridges. When we got back, we made some hot chocolate and got us a little book for the Laugavegur trek ahead of us for the next few days.

Frostastadavatn - lake

Frostastadavatn – lake

Hills of Landmannalaugar

Hills of Landmannalaugar

Landmannalaugar

Landmannalaugar

Iest along the ridge

Iest along the ridge

Gina in the Hills

Gina in the Hills

"Which way Gins?"

“Which way Gins?”

Frostastadavatn

Frostastadavatn

I went to the local hot springs afterwards, which Iest didn’t feel like as it was a bit cold (I would say that would be the reason to actually got to hot springs, but what do I know). We both took a nice hot shower and had a dinner and just headed to bed as indeed it was a bit chilly.

Ljótipollur

Ljótipollur

Hot springs of Landmannalaugar

Hot springs of Landmannalaugar


12
Jul 15

Skaftafell – Landmannalaugar

We woke up into a bit of rain and low cloud, and decided to head over to Landmannalaugar today. That meant we had some time for a lazy morning as the bus was not leaving until half 11. By that time the weather cleared up quite nicely, so we dried the tent and soaked up some sun. Our bus driver turned out the same chatty guy from Höfn, which was nice. The route to Landmannalaugar from the east we originally wanted to take was still closed, the summer this year is really late, so we had to go all the way to Hella (with a couple of waterfall stops on the way, who even cares by now; for the second one we didn’t even bother to get out of the bus anymore; and also a stop in rainy Vík’s black sand beach), and switch to an off-road bus to Landmannalaugar from there. Off-road bus it really was, and the road was pretty rough for the last about 60 kms, including a few river crossings. We arrived in Landmannalaugar at about half eight in a slight drizzle. After pitching the tent and making a nice couscous dinner we went to have a look at the local hot springs where a few people were bathing (we’ll do that tomorrow), and then straight to bed.

Vik under heavy rain

Vik under heavy rain