08
Aug 10

Ullapool – Skye

Port of Ullapool

Properly sunny! Just the day to finally do the An Teallach route, yes, the UK # 1 route by Trail magazine. We wasted no time in Ullapool, and soon we were on the trailhead. The weather was exquisite indeed, and after a bit of a strenuous rocky uphill hiking we got to enjoy the beautiful views we came for. Of course, due to the weather and popularity of the route, it was a bit of a bloody tourist highway that day, but still very worth it.

We started the ridge with Sail Liath, continued over Stob Cadha Gobhlach, Corrag Bhuidhe, Sgurr Fiona, Bidein a Ghlas Thuill and Glas Mheall Mor. The final descent through the valley was very beautiful, along waterfalls and rhododendron bushes towards the end, but proved to be a bit too long and strenuous after what we had already done on the ridge, and we arrived to the car very exhausted. A little bit over 7 hours in total.

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After nice Chinese dinner in Inverness, we wanted to camp in Tokavaig on Skye, but that proved too spooky for this time, and since it started to rain heavily, we just decided to sleep in the car for once.

Wildlife sightings:
mountain goats
frogettes
butterflies


07
Aug 10

Mellon Udrigle – Ullapool

Wild Deer!

The weather didn’t look too good for An Teallach route; low clouds wouldn’t permit the stunning views the route is known for. We went for a huge big breakfast, but clouds hadn’t moved anywhere in the meantime, and Iestyn just couldn’t be asked to go do it. So we decided to do the Ben Eighe route instead.

The route starts with a bit if a loser trail through the valley, so there was a lot of people with kids, short-legged dogs, umbrellas etc. Even though the views were already really nice, we were still quite happy to reach the natural amphitheatre around the lake, where the loser trail ended, and to go up some real hills. We started with the highest one, Ben Eighe itself, and continued the ridge over Spidean Coire nan Clach, Sgurr Ban, and Sgurr nan Fhir Duibhe. Towards the end the clouds were finally lifting, offering some pretty dramatic views over the valleys. Altogether a little bit under 7 hours.

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We camped in Ullapool, with a shower, and a tv show style drama before sleeping.

Wild life sightings:
Plenty of deer! Got really close to some on Ben Eige


24
Nov 09

Tokavaig (Isle of Skye) – Ullapool

It’s great sleeping in a tent. It rocks. Hearing the rain hitting it always makes me smile when I’m all warm and nice inside. We munched on Chocolate Porridge, and Regi decided it would be nice to go for a swim in the sea. Bear in mind this is the end of November. We ‘both’ went swimming. Regi went fully in – me on the other hand, up to my ankles. I’m telling you, that sea was cold!!

It didn’t stop raining. We toured the Isle, and went right up North, we saw some lovely waterfalls including Kilt Rock, and some nice scenery, Quiraing rocks.

Quiraing rocks

From here, we decided to leave the Island, and head up North to the lovely little fishing village of Ullapool. Our little hearts was set on camping again, so after arriving there, we scouted for a suitable camping spot off the beaten track. This little mission was unsuccessful, as everywhere was waterlogged, and the wind was pretty heavy.

Reginit fell asleep on my lap whilst I was driving, looking for a camp site. Bless. I saw loads of wild deer on the roads. It was a really nice experience. I fell in love with a song by Iva Frühlingová called It Ain’t Easy. This little stretch of driving was just lovely.

We managed to check into a cool B&B, with a similar smell to my fave pub here in Wales – Pen y Gwryd, so it felt homely. We hit the bat, and had some Czech beer. It was nice.

Our plan from Ullapool was to attempt to conquer the lovely walk that is An Teallach, but the weather up here was so bad – and we were still suffering from our mishap on the Ben, that we decided not to.